Interventions in Materials and Techniques
16.02.2012 – 21.04.2012
New Fashion: Interventions in Materials and Techniques is the first of three exhibitions at the Fashion Space Gallery devoted to emerging talent across the disciplines of fashion design, illustration and photography. The series will showcase makers who, though not yet widely known, are some of the most outstanding of their generation - whose work takes it’s place among the best of contemporary practice, while also defining future directions, agendas and tastes around fashion creation.
By presenting the work of eight emerging fashion labels, this exhibition explores a number of ways in which young designers are pushing boundaries in the creation of contemporary womenswear. All of those featured have established their businesses within the past three years, and yet each possesses a clear sense of their individual creative process and professional identity. Their strong visions are tangible in the intensive materiality, high level of craftsmanship, powerful visual impact and originality of the work that they produce.
Featured designers include: Design duo Fyodor Golan, who have been described by Roland Mouret as being “unique and stubborn, they do what they want and follow their feeling” and whose unique couture-level creations won them this year’s prestigious Fashion Fringe award.
London College of Fashion MA Fashion Artefact graduate Úna Burke, whose visually captivating and technically challenging leather designs have received widespread critical acclaim in Italian Vogue, Wallpaper and The Guardian.
Chi Chi Luo, also a recent graduate from London College of Fashion, who was hailed a ONE TO WATCH by Vogue.com and Italian Vogue and was shortlisted for the ‘Most creative student collection’ at the WGSN Global Fashion Awards 2011.
Felicity Brown, who uses intensive techniques of fabric manipulation, layering, and deconstruction to create elegant and original designs and whose debut collection at Fashion East in 2010 was described by vogue.com as “without ... doubt one of last season’s biggest hits.”
Central Saint Martin’s graduate Derek Lawlor, who has been credited by Vogue’s Sarah Mower as producing ‘fabulous knitwear’ and is distinguished for his incredibly detailed knowledge, application of materials and unique cord working technique, which he uses to create spectacularly graphic 3D volumes and effects.
Eleanor Amoroso, who produces high fashion looks through the ancient art of macramé and has been featured in numerous publications including, i-D, VOLT and Another Magazine.
Nicola Morgan, whose 2011 graduation collection incorporates cutting-edge 3D printing technology directly into soft tailored silhouettes and who has won awards including British Design Council New Designer of the Year (2009), the Graduate Fashion Week Innovation Award (2009) and the Levi’s® Award at Mittelmoda.
Zyanya Keizer, who launched her eponymous label last year at Amsterdam International Fashion Week and is distinguished for her intensive beadwork construction, which she applies both to elaborate decorative patterns and remarkable three-dimension shapes.
The exhibition also includes commissioned masks by acclaimed costume designer Helen Woolfenden based on a collection of antique microscopic slices of plant, mineral and insecta collected and printed on silk by London artist Graz Darken (Slices London). Woolfenden’s creations recently appeared in Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty, at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York.
New Fashion has been curated by Leanne Wierzba, Assistant Curator, Fashion Space Gallery and Gemma Williams, a graduate from MA Fashion Curation London College of Fashion and independent curator. The exhibition series has been devised by Creative Director, Magdalene Keaney.